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Purely Puppy is the perfect blog for puppy parents. It is written by Dr. Lisa Radosta, a board certified veterinary behaviorist in southeastern Florida, who has a great love of dogs, and a special fondness for Rottweilers.

 

The Magic Pill for Puppies

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November 09, 2011 / (16) comments


Imagine: You are standing in the veterinarian’s office with your pup. The doctor tells you that there is a new medication that prevents the leading cause of death in dogs. You have to give it once a day for eight weeks, it doesn’t have any negative side effects, it is free, and it is proven to work.

 

Would you give it? I would! This is your lucky day; because there is a magic pill that does all of that and more! It will help prevent aggression, thunderstorm phobia and other behavioral disorders. But there’s no reason to call for the magic pill. You already have it. It’s socialization!

Socialization is the process by which an animal learns to relate to the stimuli in its environment, including other animals, people, places, and things. To understand how and when to socialize your puppy, you should first understand the sensitive period for socialization (3-14 weeks of age).

A sensitive period is a time when a small amount of work or no work at all can have a large impact on the dog’s future behavior. During this special time, puppies are most easily socialized to stimuli. This means that the puppy is more likely to approach something that scares her when she is between 8 and 14 weeks old when compared to puppies outside of this period. The door for socialization doesn’t close at 14 weeks for every puppy. Depending on the breed of dog, it may be shorter or longer. It is best to continue with socialization until your pup is about eight months old, when the second fear period should be about over.

Do the math:

Socialization = less behavior problems later in life

No socialization = negative exposure = increased likelihood of behavior problems

Of course, life is not as black and white as all that. Each pup has a genetic destiny which will affect her behavioral development. However, more times than not, the math holds true. In other words, protecting the puppy by sheltering her until her vaccinations are completed will actually hurt her! Often, the problem behaviors which result from a lack of exposure at a young age don’t become apparent until the dog reaches social maturity (1-3 years). By that time, you are treating a behavior problem, not socializing. Trust me; it is a lot harder to treat a behavioral disorder than it is to prevent it.

But don’t take my word for it; look at the studies which support socialization. Examples of just some of the findings on socialization are below.

  1. Puppies who attended early learning and socialization classes from 7-12 weeks were more likely to be retained in their original homes when compared with pups that did not.

  2. Puppies who are well socialized are likely to learn more quickly, are able to problem solve more effectively in new situations, and have lower emotionality and earlier maturation of their EEG (measure of the brain patterns or electrical activity of the brain) when compared to unsocialized puppies of the same age.

  3. If puppies are kept in a deprived environment until 20 weeks, they are more likely to exhibit anti-social behavior. It is difficult for these pets to become well-behaved family pets because they are slower to learn, more reactive (have intense emotional reactions to small stimuli), don’t understand how to play with other dogs and are difficult to train.

Even now, when I read the findings about socialization, it blows my mind. The brain actually develops more quickly when you socialize a pup. Puppies are smarter, braver, less emotional and more social. And when not socialized, they are the opposite!

But wait, it isn’t as easy as it seems. As my old boss used to say, "Radosta, it’s not about practice, it’s about perfect practice." For socialization, it’s about positive practice. Make sure that each exposure is positive.

One easy way to socialize pups is to take them to puppy class. Pups should be enrolled in a positive reinforcement puppy socialization class one week after they receive their first vaccination and deworming. Your doctor may grapple with the idea of whether or not to recommend puppy classes before their vaccination series is complete because of the risk of contracting an infectious disease. Fortunately, science is again on our side, because a recent study shows that pups in puppy socialization classes are no more likely to contract parvovirus than pups who don’t go to class. That is my experience as well.

Not all classes are created equal. Choose your class carefully. These classes are not about teaching specific behaviors, but about exposing the pup to stimuli. They should be positive reinforcement only. Jerking puppies around on choke chains and pinch collars is not socialization. Make sure that the class is held in an indoor area which is cleaned with a bleach solution before and after classes, the puppies are screened for illness, and that there is a specific place for pottying. Puppy class instructors should verify that all puppies have received at least one combo vaccination and deworming at least seven days prior to the start of class. Each week, the attendees should bring a copy of their pup’s most recent veterinary visit to ensure that all pups are kept up to date on vaccinations.

If you are a go-getter, you can socialize your pup without a class. Take your pup on field trips five days a week. Seek out places where you can expose her to all kinds of stimuli at low risk of disease. Avoid places like the dog beach, dog park, or pet supply stores until your puppy has her last set of vaccinations (generally 16 weeks) and has been dewormed at least two times. Dogs who go to these places are not screened prior to entry so there is no way to guarantee their health or behavior.

I know what some of you are thinking: "I have had dogs before and I didn't socialize them. Why do I have to do it now?" Maybe you did socialize them and you didn't know it. If your kids were young or social, you may have taken your dog along to events, the school pick up line, or let her play with dogs and kids in your neighborhood. If you didn't and your dog was truly unafraid, you got lucky! But lightning rarely strikes twice, so get up and get to work!

You can find more information on socialization on the Resources page of my website, Florida Veterinary Behavior Service.

 

 

Dr. Lisa Radosta

 

 

Image: pk-2 by Alison / via Flickr

 

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COMMENTS (16)
1
Keep This Post Handy!
by TheOldBroad on 11/09/2011 07:18am

Thank you so much, Dr. Radosta. What a great post!

It makes so much sense and when presented as "You have to give it once a day for eight weeks, it doesn’t have any negative side effects, it is free, and it is proven to work." hopefully people will take heed.

2
times have changed
by rockjdog on 11/09/2011 10:07am

Oh so true. I remember when I adopted Taffy over 25 years ago from NYACC. She was a puppy and I was told by the shelter ( and vet too , I think but cant swear to it) that I need to keep her away from people places and things until she had all her shots.

Taffy was the most fearful dog I have ever known,hiding behind me if dogs or people approached, shaking uncontrollably if I left her tied to the pole in front of the deli when I got coffee and so on.

I wonder how much more she would have enjoyed life if I had socialized her during her early weeks.She of course lived with me until she passed.

I do have a question though, I have also heard it is good for the puppies to not be pulled from the mother until 10 to 12 weeks. Is this true and how does one socialize if the puppies are staying with the mother?

by BBristol on 01/22/2012 05:59pm

10 to 12 weeks is excessive (the best time for pups to go to their new homes is usually between 7 and 9 weeks). Puppies start eating solid food at 3 weeks, and after that they progressively get more of their nutrition from solid food and less and less from their mother's milk. BUT from a socialization standpoint, it is important for pups to stay with their littermates until they are at least 7 weeks old. Puppies teach each other a lot about how to properly interact with other dogs, and it helps teach them to interact better with people too. Their mother will usually help teach them good manners as well.
But socialization can - and should - start long before the pup leaves his littermates! It starts early with "puppy parties", where the breeder periodically invites people of as many different ages, races, and body types as possible to come play with and handle the puppies. Lots of disease prevention strategies are taken to keep the puppies safe - my rules for puppy visitors typically are 1. remove shoes, 2. wash hands really well, and 3. don't come straight from a dog park, vet office, shelter or pet supply company (anyplace where the person might have been exposed to a sick dog). Then after the first vaccination, the puppy starts making field trips out of the house like the article described.

3
I forgot house breaking
by rockjdog on 11/09/2011 10:10am

I also remember as a child being told to rub the puppies nose "in it" if they went in the house and a rolled up newspaper was the form of control. Boy how times have changed.

4
Night and day
by My5beagles on 11/10/2011 11:03pm

The difference between a socialized dog and a non socialized one is amazing. The few beagles I have acquired as young dogs or puppies(2 to be exact) have had proper socialization. Trips to town,pet stores, puppy obedience classes and just about anywhere else I can take them. Those two are out going, happy, and love everyone. The beagles I have gotten as seniors are generally more fearful and prone to be terrified of thunder/loud noises. With a whole lot of patience and time for the most part we have been able to reduce the issues with training and socialization. A treat pouch filled with kibble can be a wonderful motivivator for good behavior but nothing works better for me than praise. Hey don't we all want to be told we did a good job?

5
My comments
by Dr. Lisa Radosta on 11/12/2011 08:21pm

Great comments all the way around.

Times have changed haven't they? Good things that dogs are forgiving of all of our mistakes.

You are correct, rockjdog, there is evidence to support leaving puppies with their litters until they are a bit older. The problem is that whomever is in charge of the litter has to be socializing the pups. Some breeders or fosters do a great job of this and some don't. Frankly, I don't know if I could get an entire litter of pups out of the house 5 days a week to properly socialize them and work a normal job. With that in mind, it is best to take them when they are about 8 weeks, when the sociability period with other dogs is decreasing. If I had a breeder who I knew would be properly socializing them, that would be a different story.

6
question
by rockjdog on 11/15/2011 11:50am

Hi Dr Radosta,
well that makes sense, I guess it is the lesser of two evils. it is best if the puppy stays with the mother longer but if it cant be done than it is better to take the puppy at 8 weeks and socialize.

I do have a bit of a dilemma, it is two parts and hopefully you might have some insight on one part. I had filled out a volunteer application and I recieved my package from this rescue that I filled out the form with. I have been asked to sign a waiver to protect the rescue ( for insurance reasons). I have no problem with this but part of the waiver states that any dog that exibits resource guarding against humans has to be reported and this dog will be put down, regardless of the underlying reasons. They are talking about a dog that still resource guards after being in the foster home for a bit.( not a starving dog that is trying to protect its food right off the bat) This rescue works with a large breeds and these dogs are powerful and can kill due to their size. So I can understand where they are coming from. I am no dog expert but from what I have read resource guarding can be corrected and this is where my delemma lies. Now my dog Molly is a resource guarder. She will let me or my wife take a treat away or touch her when she is eating, no problem. if a stranger approaches her she will guard her food. The first time my mom came down and visited she growled at her when she approached her crate but with the next visit mom could approach and molly would not growl, so it is appears molly does learn. The rescue is of course worried about what happens if a grandchild made a first visit to a dog that resource guards: the child could get hurt.Seeing how people still treat dogs I can understand that it is impossible to make sure everyone will be prudent and create a safe environment for both dog and kids. My problem is I am still stuck in my head with the notion that resource guarding is fixable with the right training and may not be something to kill a dog over. The rescue people clearly have much more experience with dogs than I do so I dont want to disagree just because I am not too well informed. My feeling is that resource guarding can be stopped with training. Can it be fixed or is it just too dangerous to hope the gen pop can handle it?

by My5beagles on 11/15/2011 06:05pm

A few years back a moron dumped a horribly matted cocker spaniel at my house. After getting him fixed up and healthy it was time to find him a home. Made an appointment with "Super Duper Rescue"(made up name of course) and took Tucker in. Explained our situation that we would gladly join their foster program,foster in the future but especially hard to place and senior dogs. But after finding out they too euthanize if the dog fails the temperament test I said no thanks and scooped Tucker up. I even said if he failed I would agree to keep him forever. They said no..fail = death. I've never gone back. Sorry we can all have bad days and resource guarding can be minimized or eliminated. I had one dog that had issues with food. I used to feed her by hand often. She came to realize that food came from me,treats came from me. After a bit anyone could do anything around her. She would just lay down and that was it.
BTW Tucker the cocker went to a lovely family with three little girls. He is in a 4H program,has is CGC and does rally obedience. He was shown at the 4H program a few years ago at the Ohio State Fair. Considering the stressful situation Tucker may of failed that test and who knows how his story may of ended.

by rockjdog on 11/16/2011 10:49am

Yes it is a very dificult topic. I just dont have the experience and I have never seen a dog that is so aggressive that there is no help. I have heard of it but I have not seen it.I do know many aggressive dogs will stay aggressive but can be managed with the right tools and sometimes medication.The determination of this rescue is not to take a chance if the dog is clearly aggressive. I just need to define that for myself I guess.

I know this may be a copout but no matter what: I do not want to be in a position to decide if a dog lives or dies based on temperment. I know someone has to make those hard choices but I simply cant do it.

This rescue does lots of great work and I understand the position. Many people simply wont insure that an aggressive dog will remain safe. A child that is attacked by a 150lb dog will be killed, no doubt about it. So I get it, im just unclear if resource guarding is pathalogical.

by rockjdog on 11/16/2011 05:28pm

well I guess the doc is not gonna answer this one. I will figure it out on my own then

7
Patience...
by Dr. Lisa Radosta on 11/16/2011 06:50pm

Hi all,
I would ask for patience in answering your posts. Please don't turn on me if you don't get an answer quickly. I answer about once weekly. Believe me, I am not abandoning you, but I don't log on each day!!

Resource guarding is common in dogs. It is generally manageable, but rarely curable. It comes in all different flavors so it is difficult to speak in generalities. If the dog is mild, you can work with the dog in that environment to decrease or virtually cure the behavior, but when the environment changes, there is no way to know what will happen. Behavior is somewhat dependent on environment. So, resource guarding is not always fixable, and I would say that it is rarely fixable, but more likely manageable.

The rescue is liable for those future bites no matter how rock solid they think that their contract is. They could be shut down because they adopt a dog who bites. What good will they be then? They can't help any dogs.

Aggression is almost always treatable and manageable, however some people aren't able to do the work or they don't want to do the work. Sometimes medications are required as well. Sometimes the dog is so dangerous that it isn't ethical to treat the dog.

I think that you are right that you have to define it for yourself. It is your moral decision.

I am not sure what you are asking about resource guarding being pathological. It is hereditary in some cases and it can certainly be taken to an abnormal level.

I hope that helps.

by rockjdog on 11/17/2011 10:05am

Thank you Dr Rodasta. I am sorry I was impatient. You are correct, I should have shown more patience. I get so emotionally charged about animals that I can get stupid and whiny. I do apologize.

Your answer helps allot and it is almost word for word what the rescue explained to me. I did not just want to ask anyone because we are all so passionate about animal welfare sometimes the answers we hear are the not the reality.

So a big giant thank you for giving the real scoop on this issue.I cant tell you how much this helps me to feel that the rescue is correct in their statements. It was very important for me to know that they were telling the truth as far as guarding. I am not too happy that they will put a down but I can understand their position much better after hearing what you had to say. I have pretty much come to the conclusion that I will offer to do transport, home visits and monetary support and I will make it known that I cant be involved in any aspect that involves evaluating behavior of the dog.

Thank you thank you very much for your help.

by SavvyTX on 12/03/2011 01:26pm

My Husband and I lost our 3 yr old to a heart condition and tried to rescue a dog in his 'honor', went to a breed specific rescue and found one we thought was perfect (1 1/2 yr old) brought him home and within 3 days he had attacked our friends dog and my older dog, drew blood both times. When i called the rescue and told them it wasn't going to work out (we had him for an overnight trial period) and that we believed he was a great dog but that he would work better in a one dog home because of his aggression towards other animals.

The rescue owner YELLED at me, and told me that we should have never taken him to meet another dog, and that taking him to the dog park was a horrible idea, that i was wrong for even thinking of doing that. She also said we should have not let him have any toys for at least a month?! I thought that was just insane! We told her were very social dog owners and love bringing our dogs everywhere with us. I was just terribly confused she would 'match' us with a dog that needed to be kept in a house with no toys or interaction with other animals all day.

Am i wrong or is that not weird?! Especially reading about socializing on here that goes in the completely opposite direction.

8
Thanks so much for this!
by FernDog on 11/17/2011 10:06pm

This is one great post. I'm a dog trainer/behavior consultant and get way too many cases that could have been easily avoided if they just socialized properly when the dog was a puppy. Most people greatly underestimate the importance and the amount of socialization they should be doing. If you put in the time and effort now, you'll have a well-balanced furry friend for life.

9
Socialization
by Dr. Lisa Radosta on 12/03/2011 04:54pm

It certainly sounds like this dog was not a good match for you. That sometimes happens.

I can't speak to the rescuer's comments or reaction, but I can speak to the issue of socializing a 1 1/2 year old dog.

Socialization ends at 14 weeks. There may be a chance that the door shuts at 16 weeks, but the point is that it closes. That means that you can't socialize a 1 1/2 year old dog. You are exposing him, not socializing him. That is a big difference. The socialization period is a developmental stage where the pup is more likely to be brave than fearful. That is very different than taking an adult dog who is of unknown background out with other dogs. This is a very common misconception--that socialization can occur after the socialization period. That is not the case. If the puppy is fearful or is aggressive at that point, you are treating a problem.

So, with an older dog, it is important to take things very slowly so as not to overwhelm the dog. Then, if the dog has a problem with other dogs or whatever, generally you have to pull back and slowly expose the dog.

10
Article
by rogersmmr on 02/01/2012 02:34pm

Hi, Dr. Radosta.

Thank you for this great article. I'd love to see you post it as a downloadable PDF so I can share it as a handout with veterinarians in our area.

Thank you so much.

Happy training,
Marge Rogers

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ABOUT PURELY PUPPY

LISA RADOSTA, DVM, DACVB

Photo of Lisa Radosta

…is a board certified veterinary behaviorist. Haven’t ever heard of one? You’re in good company, because many people don’t know they exist. After all, there are only 54 of them. After veterinary school at the University of Florida and some time in primary care practice, Dr. Radosta completed a 3-year residency in behavioral medicine at the University of Pennsylvania. She treats dogs, cats and birds with serious behavior problems, like aggression, separation anxiety, elimination outside of the litter box, and storm phobia. But please don’t ask her if dogs lie on a couch and bark at her!

She spends her off time writing textbook chapters and articles for veterinarians and clients, as well as lecturing nationally and internationally. Oh, yeah - she is also an overscheduled, stressed, tired, working mom. If you are itching to know lots more about her, go to her website at www.flvetbehavior.com, and join her weekly for your puppy fix.

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