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Dr. Coates is a veterinarian based in the other “Sunshine State” – that's Colorado to the rest of you – where she lives and plays with a varied range of animals. She shares her professional and personal experiences, Monday through Friday, here on petMD's blog, the Fully Vetted. Log in for your daily dose of her insight and wisdom.

 

Why I Hate Trimming Toenails

March 10, 2010 / (7) comments


OK, so here’s where I confess: I don’t like to trim toenails — nor do I relish delegating claw detail to my staff. And no, it’s not because we’ve got better things to do and can’t be bothered with the lowly pedicure. It’s more that I can’t stand the stress of the event.


The problem: By and large, my canine patients hate having their claws clipped. Though a few of my owners have trained their dogs to accept the manipulation of their paws, and have mastered the art of proper toenail submission, many still rely on the vet for the dubiously helpful, once-a-year trim.
 
So you know, shots, blood draws, and even the fecal rod are far more readily accepted by the average dog than a nail trim. The majority of these patients shake and cower as we trim their nails. A sizable percentage must be forcefully restrained. And for what?
 
Let’s be honest: a dog that gets a nail trim once a year is receiving an all-but-useless service that only serves to make him more afraid of the veterinarian’s office. After all, they’ll have grown out within a month or two — less in some cases. And some dogs really don’t need trimming at all as long as they walk on surfaces that sufficiently file their toenails.
 
That’s why I’ve begun a campaign to reduce nail trims at my workplace. Unless the animal is easily amenable or under anesthesia, annual or semi-annual nail trims are counterproductive when conducted by a veterinarian or her staff. You want his nails trimmed? Go to the groomer. Go to PetSmart. Go anywhere else except the place where stress should be minimized for medical reasons.
 
But you may ask: Isn’t nail trimming medically indicated? Isn’t it an integral part of my pet’s health? In that case, nail trimming is well within the veterinarian’s purview, right?
 
My rejoinder: I don’t bathe, brush, or walk your dog, right? And they’re all necessary for optimal health. Why single out the nail trim when that’s every bit as basic as these home care fundamentals?
 
The exception: There are always exceptions. As when pets require sedation or anesthesia for a trim. But even this is questionable if you consider the risks of anesthesia versus the health rewards of nail trimming.
 
Which brings me to the more obvious exception: Puppies!
 
In my opinion, a veterinarian should go out of his way to explain the importance of nail trimming for pet health. Primarily, nail trimming reduces injuries such as claw and toe fractures, prevents ingrown curved nails, and minimizes orthopedic problems that can result from poor claw positioning.
 
Puppy nail trim training is easily undertaken by providing positive stimulus while manipulating feet and clipping the claws. Because puppy claws are especially easy to trim, an owner who complies with directions and clips claws weekly can adapt easily to the procedure and fall into the habit with a minimum of human stress.
 
Clients who neglect to trim their puppy’s toenails and expect the veterinarian to do it on a subsequent well-puppy visit should be gently informed of their responsibility. After all, the puppy visits will end and they’ll soon be on their own. Clients who fear clipping claws too short should be instructed in the use of a Dremel-like drill or PediPaws-style product as an alternative approach.

I’m not the only veterinarian who hates the forced nail trim at the hospital. Here’s applied animal behaviorist and veterinarian Dr. Sophia Yin on the nail trim in her excellent book, Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior modification of Dogs and Cats: Techniques for Developing Patients Who Love Their Visits.


 A toenail trim is not an emergency procedure. Do not perform one forcibly if the patient is unwilling to hold still. Doing so can train the dog to be more fearful of people, hate the veterinary hospital, and can even escalate to aggression immediately or in the future. Consequently, forced restraint is likely to cause the dogs to become behaviorally worse than when they entered. Instead, if the dog will not hold still, inform the owner that you are concerned about the dog’s behavioral health and ability to be treated in the future.
 

Dr. Yin then offers a host of counterconditioning techniques that veterinarians and technicians can teach their clients to perform at home: treats, petting, and a gradual approach to feet (and later, claws), all through positive, gentle interactions. Here's a video to illustrate (though I would likely have used a muzzle, initially, for this pet, the techniques work).
 
Sure, it’s our job to make sure your pet gets that nail trim. But that doesn’t mean it should be happening at the hospital — especially if it increases the stress of an already stressful visit. After all, if your dog hates the toenail trim so much, you really should be looking at yourself and wondering what it is YOU can do to help your pet.

 

 

 

Dr. Patty Khuly

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COMMENTS (7)
1
toe-nail training video
by spbmag1 on 03/10/2010 10:07am

Great video -- thank you Dr. Khuly! I'm sure the process can used for other training needs, as well.

2
Toe nails
by xenatherottie on 03/10/2010 10:31am

I totally understand about the whole toe nail clipping. I believe that it is unncessary, I walk/run with my dog on the sidewalks all the time. The other day my mother was complaining that Xena's (my rott) nails were making too much noise and told me to clip them. Xena's nails are black and its super hard to judge were the wic is. I have one of those clippers with the guard on them. Did one nail and everything was fine but with the second one she wimpered and I didn't even cut the nail. I noticed that she started bleeding. I guess even with the guard it was too much. That's it, I hate putting her through unnecessary stress and pain. Last time at the vets it took like half an hour to trim her nails. I'm going to just leave it to nature and also going to try soft paws for dogs. Will let you know how that goes. My cat loves those things.

3
Good resource for finding quick in black claws?
by Galadriel on 03/10/2010 11:39am

Okay, I try to make sure my dogs' nails are clipped regularly (brushing, teeth brushing, and nail clipping all happen on a regular basis). But I'm sure I'm too conservative with my dog who has all-black claws. I started using a mini rotary tool recently to try to make the whole thing a little more effective, but I'm still very worried about accidentally quicking her.

This is an issue on which I've never really found a good reference. Yes, comments about how important it is to keep them clipped. Yes, how long they should be. Yes, lots of other comments about clipping nails...but how do I safely determine where the quick is in claws that are totally black?

4
Nail trims, clients, and training (the humans!)
by BCBev on 03/11/2010 10:39am

Nail trims are something I'm oddly passionate about. I see so many dogs who have overgrown nails. I am a groomer who works in an SPCA shelter, but it isn't the shelter dogs who suffer from this - its the general public's pets.

Dew claws grown in a full circle. Dew claws grown into the pad. Small dogs with nails in excess of 3" who find walking so uncomfortable that they only move to get to the food bowl, and to go do their business.

We recommend nail trims be done (or at least presented for inspection) every six to eight weeks. Of course, not all dogs need that frequency; dogs who walk on hard surfaces usually wear down their nails naturally. It's the pets who never get out of the house and off the grass that need more constant supervision.

And yes, for a good number of dogs, having their nails trimmed in a tremendously stressful event. In most cases we take a three prong approach: first, we work with our human client to see if they are anxious about it, because there really is a correlation between anxious mommy and freaking out pet. Second, we use what Dr. Yin teaches, with a gradual desensitization and not forcing the dog beyond their capabilities. Last, we encourage them to come in for a cookie and a fuss as often as possible. Even if the cookie is Fifi's last piece of kibble from breakfast that mom slides to us on the sly, its creating an association that the groomer isn't a bad thing. It makes a huge difference in even just a few weeks.

The more often a dogs nails are trimmed, the less we have to take off each time, which reduces the chance of hitting the quick. That's a good thing! When nails are done once or twice a year, the quick is usually much longer than it should be and it is harder to avoid hitting it. We are also taught that each time you trim the nails, the quick should move back, and that over time you can shorten the quick to an appropriate length. Apparently this is not true in all dogs but why not work with mother nature?

There are some dogs so morbidly obese who can't stand their nails being done that we just don't do. We aren't vets, nor do we have anyone trained in emergency treatment, and if a dog were to have a heart attack or a stroke or some other crisis, there is nothing we could do about it. Those guys and gals we do send down to the Clinic.

Learning to tolerate having someone handle their feet, especially a stranger, can only be positive for the pets. For those with really tickly toes, we offer owners a handout of desensitization exercises. It seems some dogs are able to stay calm and trust that you aren't trying to hurt them; for others, there is something along the way that throws them off the rails. If you can connect with them before their anxiety escalates, you stand a good chance of getting in done and over in less than 60 seconds. (That works out to about 2 Snausages if you break them in half! LOL!)

I tried to post yesterday but it didn't go so apologies for the writing quality. We also stress that feet are not fair game when playing!

5
Black nail trims
by BCBev on 03/11/2010 11:05am

For Galadriel: yes, trimming black nails is nerve-racking! When I first started grooming I would plead with the boss for her to do the black ones. Now, I actually prefer the black ones because I feel more confident about where the quick is going to be.

There are a number of ways to guess where the quick is. I use several of them (or all of them) on every dog just to be sure. Its about nail texture, profile, shape and sheen. White or light nails let you see the quick, but with black you have to dig a little deeper. Knowing what is normal for your dogs nails is critical. Sometimes you can see the quick on the underside of the nail. Sometimes the tip of the nail is thin and pointed in comparison to the rest of the nail. Get to know her nails well.

I always do nails by a window or outside, because there is no substitute for natural light. Look at one of the nails, and notice which part is shiny and which part is dull. If your dog will let you, you can stroke the nail and see if there is a line where the nail feels different, as well. Divide in half the distance from where the sheen changes to the tip of the nail. Trim just below that line.

The second way is to look at the profile of the nail. A normal nail has a gentle curve where the nail follows the pad. Once the nail is past the pad, the shape changes. If you are using professional-style trimmers, you can use the curve of the nail to tell you where to cut. This might be hard to convey in writing! You know how when you are drying long hair, you take the brush and run it down the length of the hair? That's what you want to do with the trimmers. You will feel where the curve changes. Where the nail starts to straighten out, you will cut a few millimeters past that point.

When your dog is standing, her nails should not be touching the ground. If it has been a while since they were trimmed, you will probably have to do it in stages because the quick tends to extend longer in nails done less frequently. Having a tin of Quik-Stop around (I strongly recommend the kind with Benzocaine) is a good idea, in case you do accidently hit the quick. However, you can use flour or cornstarch in a pinch.

When you look at the cut edge you should be able to see clearly the meat of the nail. When you see a small dot at the top of the nail (imagine if you stuck yourself with a needle, about that small) you are close enough. Going further will cause pain and bleeding.

A good groomer should be able to help you learn how to take care of nails at home. It might cost a few dollars more than simply having a trim, but there are many benefits to being able to do this at home. Best of luck, and let me know if I can help!

Hopefully these links will work. These pictures will help you visualize the anatomy better.

http://www.pet-expo.com/nailcare/nailclip.htm

http://www.gather.com/viewArticle.action?articleId=281474977714629


6
FIling/Dremel as an alternative
by Andrew on 03/11/2010 03:17pm

I never have my Luca's nails trimmed. In fact the one time his vet offered I was surprised. I instead choose to have them dremeled by his groomer about once a month, or occaisionly I'll run him up to petsmart to get a quick dremel in between grooming. I've found that outright trimming seems to leave them a little sharper which leads to scratches not to mention he seems to tolerate the dremel better than the nail clipper.

For the most part this seems to keep his nails at a reasonable length and more importantly relatively dull thus saving my arms, carpets and floors, especially when a 2 yr old Shepherd Mix is playing in 6th gear.

7
Nail Trims
by Paws for Praise on 05/03/2010 07:42am

Veterinarians who do not like to do nail trims should be very proactive about having their clients attend puppy classes well before the end of the optimal socialization period. If dogs are to accept nail trimming as a routine procedure, handling the paws and nails, and clipping, needs to be started very early. Pups that wait to go to puppy class until they are four months old are at a distinct disadvantage, including the problems they often have with nipping, which could also be easily solved at an early age. The AVSAB recommends this, and I am always surprised at the number of vets who still say "wait till puppy has all its shots" - yes, there is a risk of illness if you get puppy to class early, but in my opinion, more dogs are euthanized, or undergo extreme stress, due to lack of social experience than are euthanized due to disease.
In our classes, students are advised on handling, how to make trips to the vet/groomer less stressful, and even on muzzle acclimation (In case of injury, the dog is not doubly stressed by having to accept a strange thing on their face if they already associate the muzzle with pleasant things, like liver brownies!).

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About fully vetted

Patty Khuly, VMD, MBA

Photo of Dr Khuly

Dr. Khuly is a former petMD blogger and small animal veterinarian in Miami, Florida, where she practices medicine at Sunset Animal Clinic and serves on the board of the South Florida Veterinary Medical Association. She is a graduate of Wellesley College, the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine, and The Wharton School of Business.

As a significant sideline, she writes...a lot. She authors pet health columns for USA Today, The Miami Herald and Vetstreet. She also writes a popular monthly column for Veterinary Practice News and serves as regular contributor to Veterinary Economics, The Bark, and the Veterinary News Network.

Dr. Khuly lives in South Miami with her brood of hens, goats, dogs, cats...and humans.

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